Pu-Erh Tea: Characteristics, Properties, and How to Prepare It

Pu-Erh Tea: Characteristics, Properties, and How to Prepare It

Pu'er or Pu-erh: Fermented Tea from Yunnan

Pu-erh tea is a Chinese tea produced almost exclusively in Yunnan, since the Tang dynasty. It is one of the six types of Chinese tea, as well as a fermented tea, as the leaves, after being processed, are pressed and matured for several years, a process that gives Pu-erh its distinctive taste and aroma: earthy, damp, with a hint of wood and undergrowth. Pu-erh tea is the only tea that improves with aging, just like wine. In this article, we explore the complexity of the processing of this incredibly fine and precious tea, the properties of Pu'er, and the differences between sheng and shu Pu-erh.

Pu'er: Characteristics and Description

Pu-Erh tea, Pu'er, Po Lei, or Ying-Shen cha is a type of fermented tea produced in China, specifically in the Yunnan province, located in the southwest of the country, in the Pu'er prefecture. It is often referred to as black tea, but in reality, although sometimes oxidized, Pu-erh is a category of tea on its own, just like green tea or Oolong tea, and is the only tea to be aged after processing, in special underground cellars.

The main characteristic of Pu-Erh tea lies in the fact that it can be consumed shortly after production, but more commonly it is marketed after several years of aging, sometimes even for decades, in a process called "fermentation," which allows this tea to develop an incredible taste, organoleptic notes, and properties thanks to the development of important microbial activity, a fundamental feature of Pu-erh. Pu-Erh tea acquires, through aging and subsequent fermentation, which enhance its properties and taste, a flavor of earth, wood, warming, a distinct aftertaste of undergrowth, but at the same time soft and sweet, with a moderate caffeine content.

If you have come across this tea, you may have noticed its characteristic shape: a peculiarity of Pu-erh tea lies in the way it is processed, as the leaves, after drying and rolling processes, are pressed into different shapes: it can be purchased in bricks, cakes, discs, squares, or mushrooms, each with its specific name. These shapes promote preservation and allow fermentation due to the moisture that remains inside the form.

Pu-erh tea processed and aged for years before consumption is called "raw" or sheng.

Pu-erh tea is an extremely precious and expensive tea, especially if it has been aged for many years, just like wine. Due to the duration of the processing and especially fermentation processes, and the high costs associated with these times, some tea masters in China have developed a type of Pu-erh, called "cooked" or shu, which unlike the original Pu Erh Sheng, or green, undergoes an oxidation and a "accelerated" fermentation through manual inoculation of a bacterial charge, allowing to obtain the properties of classic Pu-erh in less time, in a fermented tea that can be consumed immediately.

Very often, even among tea enthusiasts, Pu-erh shu teas are considered "inferior" compared to sheng, precisely because the fermentation and "aging" processes are artificially induced and do not occur naturally over the years. In reality, this is a misconception: a Pu-erh shu tea can have the same properties as a Pu-erh sheng, as well as the same taste and typical hints that make Pu-erh such a special tea. Pu-erh shu teas follow rigorous processing methods, and often can provide more benefits to the body than a very young Pu-erh sheng, with a weaker bacterial charge, thus representing an excellent quality-price compromise, presenting a selected microbial charge and important properties. For this reason, in the selection of Pu-Erh in our shop of fine teas, we have also included a high-quality Pu-erh shu.

Let's better understand the different processing phases of the various Pu-erhs, and their benefits and properties for the body.

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Pu-Erh Tea: Cultivation and Processing

Pu-erh tea is produced from a variety of Camellia Sinensis, the tea plant, known as Da Ye, typical of Southeast China, with larger leaves compared to other varieties. The production of fermented tea extends to many countries, but it is the Yunnan teas that are called Pu-erh, named after the prefecture where, in Imperial China, tea exchanges took place. In this area, particularly in the part known as "the six tea mountains," there are real tea forests, very wild plantations among the mountains, which guarantee optimal climatic and soil conditions for Pu-erh production and give, together with aging, the unique taste and properties typical of this tea. A tea with a very ancient history, therefore, dating back to the Tang dynasty, produced for over four thousand years but with still mysterious origins.

Pu-erh tea is a very precious tea, and precisely because of the peculiarity of cultivation, which takes place between the end of February and the beginning of March, and especially the processing and aging processes, this tea is labeled with the year and production area. In China, generally, tea was oxidized before being sold, producing the so-called black tea. Pu-erh, on the other hand, was sold before it oxidized, and was indeed known as "raw" or green tea, that is, Pu-erh sheng, which is slowly darkened by exposure to environmental factors over the years. Aging and fermentation gave the pressed tea bricks particular properties, making highly aged Pu-erh sheng teas very precious and consequently very expensive. Aged Pu-erh teas can be found on the market, reaching a cost of several hundred euros per brick.

That's why Pu'erh shu, or cooked Pu'erh, has been developed, which is oxidized and fermented through manual processes, allowing for fermented tea in a few days, rather than several years, identical in appearance, properties, and taste to a Pu'erh sheng aged for decades. Both Pu-erh sheng and shu can therefore be consumed immediately, or left to mature, an essential process in sheng, in particular, to allow the typical Pu'erh taste to develop.

But how is Pu'er tea processed? All types are obtained from Camellia Sinensis leaves "large leaf", which are harvested and left to wither in the sun, if possible, and then dried, to prevent oxidation. At this point, the rolling phase takes place, and then a new withering in the sun. The leaves are then pressed into characteristic shapes, tiles, cakes, or discs, through a heat source that solidifies the shape. This process represents the processing of green Pu'erh, or sheng, while additional steps are carried out for cooked or dark Pu'erh. Let's better understand the differences between the two types of tea.

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Pu-Erh Raw or Sheng

The green Pu-erh, raw, or sheng represents the original Pu-erh. Its characteristic is to be "green", therefore the oxidation process of the leaves is interrupted, through exposure to a heat source, just as in green teas. In all respects, it is therefore a green tea, which is then compressed into different shapes, and then subjected to an aging process. Tea leaves are harvested and selected, to choose the most tender and undamaged or oxidized ones, and then dried in the sun or under heating lights, to remove the moisture present in the leaves. Sun-dried pu erh is considered more valuable. Then the oxidation of the leaves is stopped through a heat source: the leaves are heated in large woks or metal basins and the so-called "green killing" (杀青 shāqīng) is carried out to stop the activity of the enzymes responsible for oxidation. The leaves can then be rolled and compressed into various shapes and sizes. In some very rare cases, loose Pu'er sheng can be found, but these are very difficult to find products. The tiles or discs of Pu Erh sheng can be sold to be consumed as soon as they are produced, therefore like green teas, "sheng", but generally they are aged and matured in warm and humid places, allowing the tea to undergo natural fermentation and leaf oxidation in contact with the environment, which turns the tea "black". The fermentation process occurs thanks to the bacterial charge normally present in Pu Erh Tea, which ferments the product due to the residual moisture inside the cake or tile and completely changes its properties and taste: the development of bacteria and molds makes the flavor of pu'er intense, strong, similar to wet earth, with an aftertaste of undergrowth and wood, fruit, and even licorice, very complex and round. The more a Pu-erh sheng is aged, the better its taste and properties will be, and consequently also its cost. There are Pu-erh teas aged for thirty or forty years on the market, among the most precious teas available. In the Third Moon e-shop, you can find a 2007 Pu Erh Sheng from Yunnan.

pu'er

Pu Erh Shu or Cooked

Pu Erh tea is an aged tea that undergoes a progressive fermentation and oxidation process thanks to the bacterial charge present in the tea, which over time changes its properties and refines its taste. As we have already explained, obtaining a good Pu Erh Tea requires years and years of aging, to achieve significant fermentation and give the leaves beneficial properties for the body and the characteristic taste: a freshly produced Pu-erh sheng will have an herbaceous and astringent flavor. Given the difficulty and long time required for the fermentation of Pu Erh, and the high costs reached by important vintage teas, and given the growing interest in this tea and its properties, the Chinese have developed an additional processing method of Pu Erh to achieve "accelerated fermentation and aging", leading to a Pu Erh called shu, or "cooked", with all the characteristics of an aged sheng tea in terms of taste and benefits, but with the convenience of being able to produce it in a few days, or at most weeks. Although it is called "cooked", it does not involve cooking in the processing to mimic natural aging and fermentation: it is likely that the term "cooked" is a mistranslation, as shu also means "full ripening". The production of Pu'er shu tea spread widely in the 70s, and consists of modifying the processing conditions to favor the development of a microflora of bacteria and fungi like that developed over the years in sheng Pu Erh in a controlled, warm, and humid environment. The processing of Pu Erh Shu is very similar to that of sheng, with the difference that, after drying the leaves in the sun, they are wetted, performing a kind of "washing" called "wet piling", and exposed to the sun or stored in a warm place, stirring them every two hours, in a process similar to composting. Thanks to this humidification and piling process, a very particular bacterial microflora will develop in the tea, of various kinds depending on the processing: in some cases, shu Pu Erh is produced with certain bacteria or fungi to confer specific beneficial properties, resulting in products with indescribable flavors. Pu-erh shu can also be further aged, allowing the fermentation to continue.

The accelerated aging of shu teas consists of obtaining a tea with the characteristics of a sheng Pu Erh aged for years, which in fact in terms of properties has nothing to envy to a sheng. A Pu erh shu tea obtained from a meticulous inoculation of a bacterial strain can offer many more properties and a distinctly more particular and characteristic taste than a raw sheng, matured only for a few months, at a substantially lower price. Typically, in induced aging Pu Erh shu, bacteria of the Penicillium and Aspergillus type develop, in different concentrations. However, attention must also be paid to the quality of Pu Erh shu, as poor control of fermentation and oxidation processes and humidity levels and bacterial growth can lead to a Pu'er with an unpleasant taste and organoleptic profile, as well as poor aging, which can also occur in sheng Pu Erh aged for years.

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Cultivation and How to Recognize a True Pu Erh

Pu Erh tea produced in Yunnan, where most Pu'er tea is produced, is obtained from Camellia Sinensis leaves cultivated according to three different cultivation methods:

  • Bush plantation: plants come from seeds or cuttings of old trees, planted and cultivated at low altitudes, in flat terrain. The Pu Erh obtained is considered of lower quality, due to the type of cultivation that is unnatural and aided by fertilizers, and the bitter taste that generally results from it.
  • Old plantation trees: also known as "wild trees," these are plants from old plantations cultivated by previous generations, which have become wild due to lack of care, producing high-quality tea—usually shu—although not as prized as Pu Erh obtained from wild trees.
  • Wild plantations: these are wild trees that have grown without human care and cultivation. The Pu Erh obtained from these trees is the most prized tea, with a strong, unique flavor and a surprising aftertaste that recalls notes of the crops growing in the same area, often of camphor and mint.

The type of cultivation, along with the tea's origin and the year of production, is a very important factor in determining the quality of a Pu Erh, although it is very complicated to determine, as Chinese labels often use improper or deliberately misleading terminology to present their Pu Erh as coming from wild trees. For this reason, we recommend choosing Pu Erh teas imported directly from China and Vietnam by Terza Luna, where the exact origin of the leaves, the cultivation type, and processing methods are known.

The quality of a Pu Erh tea is determined by many characteristics, from consistency in production to processing techniques, so much so that even relying on the same factory or producers is not a guarantee of quality, as the quality, and therefore the reputation of a tea factory, can change depending on the tea produced during the year.

Compression and Forms of Pu-Erh

Pu Erh tea is often recognizable by its typical pressed form, which facilitates its preservation, called Bĭng. Pu-erh teas are sold in these discs or tiles, produced by heating the desired amount of sheng or shu in special containers with steam. This process makes the cohesion of the leaves simpler, prevents the forms from crumbling during compression, and preserves the tea during long aging periods. Generally, a quality card is included inside the form before compression, guaranteeing the authenticity of the Pu Erh tea. The compression of Pu Erh forms occurs in different ways:

  • Stone press: the original method, where Pu Erh covered with a canvas sack is pressed with a cylindrical stone on a surface to form discs, or even slightly uneven "cakes." This is the most common method of compressing Pu'er tea in artisanal processes.
  • Hydraulic press: Pu Erh is pressed into metal forms, often bearing details that will appear in relief on the form. These forms are extremely compressed, so much so that they are called "iron cakes," Tei Bing, and are aged for a long time.
  • Lever press: used before the hydraulic press and activated manually.

The compressed form is believed to have been designed to facilitate the transport and commercialization of this tea. Different forms can be found on the market:

  • Disc or cake
  • Tile or square
  • Bird's nest or bowl
  • Mushroom
  • Melon

The different forms can then be packaged in different ways, wrapped in rice paper or cotton cloth, with varying weights, from 100 grams to over 5 kg. Some forms feature relief decorations or inscriptions indicating the tea's origin.

preparation pu erh

Properties of Pu-Erh

Pu'er tea is considered as medicinal by traditional Chinese medicine, and it is no coincidence that it is the most consumed tea in China, precisely because of its numerous beneficial and healing properties, especially on the gastrointestinal system.

Pu-Erh teas are particularly suitable to be consumed in winter, providing the body with energy capable of connecting it with the earth, useful in cold and humid periods.

Pu-Erh teas are considered beneficial for digestion and lowering triglycerides and therefore fats in the blood, helping to keep cholesterol levels low. They are draining teas, recommended for those suffering from blood sugar problems, as they help reduce sugar levels, so much so that they are considered "blood cleaners", able to contribute to the elimination of toxins ingested with food.

Even studies in Western medicine have shown interest in the medicinal qualities of Pu-Erh tea, recognizing its contribution to reducing bad LDL cholesterol in the blood. Furthermore, thanks to the catechins and antioxidants transformed and the microorganisms of microbial fermentation, it has beneficial properties on the intestinal tract, as well as on the cardiovascular system.

It is recommended to drink Pu-Erh very hot after meals to aid digestion.

It should be remembered that the properties related to microbial load are characteristic of both sheng and shu Pu-Erh, and not limited to sheng, as one might think: often shu Pu-Erh have specifically induced microbial loads, and can be extremely beneficial for the body, allowing you to enjoy the properties of a Pu-Erh tea without spending exorbitant amounts on a Pu-Erh aged for twenty or thirty years.

How to Prepare Pu-Erh Tea?

To prepare Pu-Erh, you must first remove the leaves from the shape. To do this, you can use the specific Pu-Erh knife, as the pressed form is often difficult to crumble by hand.

We recommend using the Yixing teapot in terracotta, specific for the Gong fu cha method of tea preparation, which should be the one to use for the preparation of a tea in a workmanlike manner, therefore with multiple short infusions. The teapot should be heated, using boiling water, while the Pu-Erh leaves should be washed, putting them in the teapot and wetting them with water, both to remove any impurities and to hydrate them, filtering after a few seconds and discarding the washing water. After filtering the water, you can proceed with the first infusion: the water temperature for Pu-Erh tea must be categorically high, therefore between 90°C-100°C. One of the characteristics of Pu-Erh is that it is suitable for multiple infusions: you can also make 7/8 infusions maintaining the complex and characteristic taste of the tea. The infusions should be about 30-40 seconds, with about a teaspoon of Pu-Erh per cup.

We recommend drinking Pu-Erh in its purity, without the addition of sweeteners, milk, or lemon, to savor the uniqueness of the aromas and flavor.

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When to Drink Pu-Erh Tea?

Pu-Erh tea is suitable to be consumed at any time of the day, to enjoy its extraordinary properties. Due to its effect on the gastrointestinal system and digestion, it is recommended to drink it during or after meals, and in the evening. Pu-Erh does not have very high caffeine content, especially if you prefer a Pu'er shu, so it can be enjoyed even in the later hours of the day, which will be made pleasant thanks to the full, sweet, and characteristic taste of this tea.

If you want to pair it with meals, enhance the body of Pu-Erh with a rich meal, a savory breakfast, or a hearty brunch, which perfectly complement the woody and damp notes of the fermented tea.

Pu-Erh is a beverage to incorporate into your daily routine due to its extraordinary beneficial properties, and you can drink several cups a day, completing your daily diet.

Where to Find Pu-Erh Tea?

If you are venturing into the world of Pu-Erh for the first time, or if you are enthusiasts looking for where to buy high-quality Pu-Erh tea, with a guarantee of quality and origin of this uniquely fermented tea, Terza Luna is the place for you. We have selected Pu-Erh shu and sheng from different origins and vintages, a 2015 Pu-Erh sheng bamboo and a 13-year-old aged sheng, the 2007 Pu-Erh sheng. In our tea e-shop, you will also find excellent shu Pu-Erh, such as the 2016 aged Pu'er shu. Visit our Pu-Erh section and discover incredible products with unmistakable aromas.

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